Source: Radio New Zealand
When you think of New Zealand fashion, you may picture the glamour of Auckland or the creativity of Wellington, but Christchurch has been enjoying a cultural renaissance with many musicians, artists and creatives now calling Ōtautahi home.
This weekend, New Zealand Fashion Week presents the first-ever Christchurch Spring Fashion Festival, showcasing local and emerging designers as part of a jam-packed three-day event.
Designers told RNZ they’ve seen a change in Cantabrians’ approach to fashion, which has been synonymous with the earthquake rebuild.
Can Christchurch kick its conservative past?
Menswear designer Murray Crane is no stranger to bucking the trend.
Despite growing up in a small rural town in Canterbury, Crane wore suits bought from op shops to mufti days at Geraldine High School.
He says Christchurch’s men’s style tends to be more conservative and classic, which suits his clothing brand, Crane Brothers.
“It definitely differs from Auckland. I think it’s not so flamboyant. It’s a bit more classic, a little bit more refrained.”
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Fashion icon Doris de Pont, founder of the New Zealand Fashion Museum, says the traditional style of the South Island dates back to the European settlement of New Zealand, when the population grew significantly.
She says the post-World War II settlement, which was largely in the North Island, brought more diversity there.
“The South is much more UK-focused… whereas the North is much more diverse,” de Pont says.
While Crane believes Christchurch is still pretty conservative, he says it’s always had an interesting, creative heart to it.
“It’s a bit of an irony, really, you have the traditional conservatism of Christchurch, but then you have this creative community that has always been there.”
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In recent years, however, young people have been moving to Christchurch in droves, which has transformed the city’s fashion landscape.
Kiwi fashion designer Caitlin Crisp grew up in Christchurch but moved to Auckland after the 2011 earthquakes.
Coming back to visit, she has seen the transformation in the city.
“Over the years, the colour, the spirit and the energy have just gotten better and better. It’s such an awesome place now, and I think that feeling for everyone translates into clothing [and] how we act.”
RNZ/Molly Swift
Second-hand fashionistas will likely know the iconic pink building in the heart of Christchurch, which is home to the vintage consignment store Nifty.
Starting as a monthly flea market in 2018, four years later, Nifty opened its doors as a permanent store – a testament to the growing second-hand market in the Garden City.
RNZ/Molly Swift
Inside, it’s a blast from the past. A plethora of pre-loved pieces await, from racks of vintage denim jeans and pops of ’60s colour to ’80s-styled bomber jackets.
Owner and founder Rosie Carroll says the Christchurch rebuild created a blank slate and allowed small businesses to get a foot in the door.
“We’ve never really been known for fashion or pre-loved fashion; it’s more been other amazing cities like Wellington and Auckland. So it’s been really amazing to be a part of the journey and see it grow,” she says.
“I think it is definitely a testament to all the incredible young people who don’t feel tied to, or pressured, to wear a certain piece of clothing.”
RNZ/Molly Swift
Carroll says she has seen the city’s style evolve.
“We had a reputation for more of a conservative sense of fashion that is tied to our roots,” she says.
“However, I have definitely noticed in the last 10 years people are taking way more risks, and I am seeing a lot more individuality.”
Is blue the new black?
Christchurch’s colder climate plays a role in how people dress, with coats and woollen jumpers a wardrobe staple.
Canterbury’s history of fibre production plays a role in the clothes Cantabrians choose to wrap ourselves up in during the colder months.
“The fibre that was grown in the South Island was a big part of the fashion story. The wools of New Zealand come primarily from the south.”
While it’s definitely colder down south, that doesn’t mean people need to dress in darker colours, Crisp says.
Beautiful colours and light-toned neutrals are a staple in her label’s collections.
“We do so many beautiful, tailored blazers, coats and knitwear, because you can wrap yourself up warm and be wearing a fuzzy, beautiful pink jumper or tweed blazer and feel even more fabulous,” she says.
Crisp says while chocolate brown is still a hot colour, heading into the summer, blue is the colour of choice.
Also leading into Christmas, we tend to gravitate to red, she says – a subtle nod to the time of year.
“I feel amazing when I put a coat or piece of clothing on that isn’t black. It lifts my spirit and makes me feel so put together and ready for the day.”
‘Some of the best designers in New Zealand’
The Spring Fashion Festival kicked off on Friday night at the James Hay Theatre inside the Christchurch Town Hall.
Australian fashion retailer The Iconic presented ‘The New Guard’, which unveiled its newest collections from exclusive designers LOVER & minima esenciales, followed by a curated edit of New Zealand’s next generation of fashion designers.
The runway came alive with a curated blend of neutrals, polka dots, silk, tartan, and bold colours of blue, pink and red. Sheer lace tops and flowy skirts glided down the stage, accessorised with kitten heels and small woven bags.
New Zealand Fashion Week board director Liam Taylor says the Christchurch Spring Fashion Festival showcases a whole series of looks from multiple designers, as opposed to the shows in Auckland, which tend to be a standalone format.
“Every designer has sent between five and six looks down, so you’re going to see a collage of some of the best designers in New Zealand,” Taylor said.
Max Lemesh
Doris De Pont is excited that fashion week has been brought to Christchurch.
“It’s a celebration … in honouring the pioneer women of Christchurch,” she says.
“I think it’s lovely to see fashion being recognised as an economic driver, an important part of our cultural story, that it’s been given a place again.”
Crisp, who will present a solo runway event at Christchurch Spring Fashion Festival on Saturday night, says it’s a great opportunity to support local designers.
Many South Island designers feel they have to go to Auckland to get somewhere in the fashion industry, she says, but that’s changing.
“That energy is really back in the city,” she says.
“When you feel good, you dress your best.”
– Published by EveningReport.nz and AsiaPacificReport.nz MIL OSI in partnership with Radio New Zealand
