How to make this summer the one you learn to surf

With more than 15,000km of coastline, it’s no surprise that surfing is a hugely popular pastime in Aotearoa.

One place where people come from all around the world to learn is at Auckland’s Muriwai Surf School located at the famous West Coast beach.

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Manager and instructor Dylan Wallis, who first stepped onto a board when he was a toddler, sits the students down for an introduction and a run-down of the equipment, before he gives an overview of the basic technique.

For some students who have never surfed before, the first step is to figure out whether they are ‘natural’ or ‘goofy’ footed, and then to practice going from lying down to standing up.

RNZ / Marika Khabazi

From there it’s time for safety. We partner up and carry our boards down to the hill overlooking Muriwai beach, where Dylan points out the four ways to spot a rip, the currents, and some other tips that will help to keep us safe.

Then it’s time to surf.

The lesson runs for two hours, and the vast majority is spent in the water, with Dylan going from student to student offering tips and pushing students into the waves.

Changing demographics

Bridget Wallis, the surf school’s founder and owner (and Dylan’s mum), says they get “all sorts” of people coming in for lessons, including language students, school groups, tourists, and “lots of Kiwis”.

But there is one change that Bridget has noticed since 2002 when the school opened.

“A lot more women surf now than back in the day.

“Girls were always wanting to try, but then it’s hard to compete in the water with men, but now they do it a lot more confidently.”

From Ōakura to the world

Paige Hareb competing at the Newcastle Pro.

Katrina Clarke

Pro surfer Paige Hareb has fond memories of learning to surf at Taranaki‘s Ōakura beach.

Hareb recalls going to the beach with her best friend after school, and her dad pushing her into the waves.

Hareb played a number of sports growing up, and while she doesn’t remember the moment she caught the surfing bug, she does say that surfing was “the most fun and felt like the least amount of pressure” compared to other sports.

In 2008, Hareb became the first New Zealand woman to qualify for the ASP women’s world tour, and recently competed at the Newcastle Pro event as part of the Women’s Qualifying Series.

Hareb, like Bridget Wallis, has observed more women surfing.

“Without a doubt, every surf you go on now you’ll see a female surfer… [I’m] just seeing way more girls in the water.

“Things are becoming more and more even, so I think girls are just getting out there.”

As for advice for those wanting to learn, Hareb says a lesson is the way to go.

“I would say definitely try and book in a professional lesson just to get the basics.

“Especially in New Zealand, really learn the water safety and how to read the ocean and rips.”

Disabled Surfers Association ‘have a go’ day at Piha.

Sue Mo

Surfing for everyone

The Disabled Surfers Association run three ‘have a go’ events a year, for “any participant, no matter what their disability, to have a go at surfing”.

President Duncan Smith, a surfer himself, explains how the event works.

“We have teams of 15 volunteers, with three or four team leaders, and one at a time we take the participants out on the board to sort of chest or waist high water. Team leaders will be out the back with them and put them on the board.

“The participant is on the board with the team leader surfing the wave into the beach.”

The events have been running in New Zealand for roughly 10 years, and a range of people attend.

“We’ve had the Wheel Blacks come down for a session, younger children come, Down’s syndrome and learning disability kids, we have quadriplegics come down and go for a surf.

“It’s open to absolutely anybody with any kind of disability whatsoever.”

– Published by EveningReport.nz and AsiaPacificReport.nz, see: MIL OSI in partnership with Radio New Zealand